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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 25, 2010 4:28:57 GMT
This Tuesday i am getting my hands on a single 1.25 MDD. Now i am getting it for cheap because there is an issue with it. Apparently it works but it has an "Open Firmware Passcode" on it that prevents doing crucial tests. And the fact that the OS on the drive is also passcoded. Now since this is a used computer, first and foremost, how do i forcibly remove the "OF" code? Can't reset pram, can't boot from cd, can't use any key combinations since the "OF" code disables all of that.
Most i can figure out is load in an preinstalled OS 9 HD with FWsucker on it.
Or is there a different path i can use to get rid of that d**n code?
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Post by blacksheep on Oct 26, 2010 20:31:31 GMT
Change amount of RAM (add or remove some) then reset PRAM. Hold keys until you hear third chime. Overclock it
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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 27, 2010 0:49:30 GMT
did that, and afterwords, go into the open firmware, enter "setenv security-mode none" and press enter. but you still need a code to disable it.
I used a program called FWSucker for os 9, but now my issue is with a reliable video card. I may get my hands on an ati rage agp card that will do the trick for now.
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Post by blacksheep on Oct 27, 2010 18:17:47 GMT
It's weird that you had to use FWSucker to disable OF password. I've done it many times and RAM amount change and holding Apple + P + R till third chime always worked. Never had to do "setenv security..." after.
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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 27, 2010 21:09:40 GMT
Well, i tried the way you said, reset pram 3 times using the keys, and afterwards, tried to boot from the cd afterwards. no dice, it had the lock, a text line and then the arrow button. in order for you to use any proper key commands, IE target disc mode, boot from cd, you need either to enter the code, or kill it. i chose to kill it
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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 28, 2010 9:30:51 GMT
Ok, an update!!! Got a new (well old actually) video card. An ATI Rage 128 Pro 16 MB AGP card and installed Leopard on my MDD. I have 3 80 GB drives inside her, 1 is for Time Machine, the other 2 are raided together. She has a full set of ram, 2 GB PC-3200. Also performed a CPU overclock ( as per my forum post) All i need to do now is get better dvd drives, a faster dual cpu, a copper heatsink and a kick**s video card. Hmm, maybe a superclocked 7800 GT ;D
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Post by aquamac on Oct 28, 2010 12:42:52 GMT
Yup either a superclocked 7800 GT or a second hand Fire GL X3. I will see how much they are going for nowadays! Scratch that, take a look at these prices!!!! LINKI thought they would have dropped by now! The great thing about these is that they can be flashed in OSX Tiger! This is what you want! LINK
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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 28, 2010 18:55:26 GMT
Oooh nice! Not a fan of the Fire cards, turning them into X800's. But i do like the price on the Nvidia's.... After that, i have to see if i can get my hands on a 4 port Sata II card to run hard drives and dvd's. Also, an update on my overclock. Had her running all last night, checked this morning, no KP and the CPU was sitting at 37 ÂșC. Could be the fact that i swapped out all the fans for better and more quiet fans. Here are the CFM and decibel ratings. PSU - Minebea 2410ML-04W-B60 5300 RPM 25CFM @ 38dBA New - Startech FAN6X25TX3H 5000 RPM 26.5 CFM @ 30 dBADoor - Delta AFB0612HHB 4500 RPM 17.3 CFM @ 35dBA New - Startech FAN6X1TX3 4000 RPM 15.9 CFM @ 28 dBACPU - Papst 4212H 3400 RPM 108CFM @ 49dBA New - Scythe Slip Stream SY1225SL12SH 1900 RPM 110.31 CFM @ 37 dBAAlso, in order to get the fans to run in the MDD, i had to reverse the black and red wires on the fan connectors or they would't work. What i would like to do is what these guys did for the PSU. Part 1, part 2, part 3.
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Post by aquamac on Oct 28, 2010 22:09:00 GMT
Just watched all 3 parts of that - it was really informative and thoroughly enjoyable!! I would think the 120mm fan would be a lot quieter too. I'd say the STD power supply on the MDD is one of the weakest parts!
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Post by reddrag0n on Oct 29, 2010 21:42:02 GMT
Wow, that open firmware passcode must be popular. I have a G4 iMac coming in that needs that removed too. I hope this one is easier to do than mine was.
EDIT. Well, 5 min later and i was in.
Just so people know if they come across this same exact situation.
Step 1. Remove a stick of ram. Step 2. Boot up mac while pressing COMMAND + OPTION + P + R Step 3. Keep holding those keys until you hear 3 chimes. Step 4. Immediately hold down the keys COMMAND + OPTION + O + F Step 5. Once in the Open Firmware screen, type in reset-all and press ENTER.
The mac should type on the screen about erasing the rom or something to that effect and the system will reboot. From there you have full control of your mac again.
Remember, these steps only work on PPC Macs, not the Intel based Macs.
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Post by blacksheep on Nov 1, 2010 12:52:12 GMT
You can pass steps 4 & 5. Release keys after third chime and that's all.
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Post by reddrag0n on Nov 1, 2010 17:51:53 GMT
According to some of the steps i have read online, they suggest using the reset-all function to kill the code. Just to help prevent the code from reappearing for some odd reason.
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Post by blacksheep on Nov 1, 2010 19:38:24 GMT
I've never experienced code reappearing, but I think it could be still ahead me Back to the topic: it's nice to see another OC'ed and modded MDD around here If you want put SATA drives in it, you could use regular SATA -> IDE adapter, as far as drives won't exceed IDE speed limit (100 MB/s) (SSDs, VRs, 2TB WD Blacks for example).
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Post by reddrag0n on Nov 1, 2010 20:56:34 GMT
I was thinking of that for the SATA idea, but i think what i might do is get another seritek card. Since out of all the mac cards, it's the only one that's bootable. The Sonnet cards don't allow booting. So maybe a 1v4 and a 1s2 card might be in order. Run everything via SATA. Along with a modded PSU, a 7800 card and an OC'ed dual cpu, my MDD will fly. Great for running somewhat older apps (d**n Intel macs...). Just a side note here. I found a place where i can get my hands on a 20" ADC LCD. Is it worth it to pick it up? I know either i would have to mod the connectors to make it run DVI, or get the DVI to ADC adapter. Would it be a good choice to pick up that monitor?
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Post by aquamac on Nov 1, 2010 21:26:07 GMT
Great monitor the 20" ADC, but you will need the DVI/ADC convertor! I remember reading an article where this came out better than the new 20" that replaced it (which is also now defunct). Still use my 20" ADC everyday at work, left on all day, everyday and still going strong!
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